i play UO sometimes on the freeshard the second age and it exactly how it was before they invented trammel and felucca. PvP everywhere. It is kinda frustrating in the beginning but I have to say that the majority of players are not PK'ers and that most of the newbie training spots are actually pretty well guarded. The cool thing about it is , that you really thrill when you go deep into the wilderness and you see someone with a red name (PK). Its like, shit i am dead and i will loose all my stuff.

But mostly PKs leave you alone if they see you are weak. On the other hand, you very soon learn not go out alone but in groups. That was one of the first lessons i learned in UO (10 years ago). STICK TOGETHER!
btw.. UO was even so cool , that even richard garriot was PKed while playing as lord british

nowadays you dont need it anymore, and thats quite a shame. I can understand why. UO's prime (financially) came with the introduction of trammel.