Another 'building a PC' thread

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23 comments, last by Ravyne 9 years, 9 months ago

I built a near identical system earlier this year with the only differences being the mobo (well nearly the same it's an ASUS Z97-Pro) and case. I just wanted to pipe in that I HIGHLY recommend the Corsair Carbide 540 case as this has been by far the best PC case I have ever worked with.

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People still use optical disks?

Installing windows.

Now that the prices on AMD cards have come back down you may consider an r9 290 instead of the gtx 780.

You may also want to look at case labs cases. They are pretty expensive, but they are made out of aluminum, made in USA, and look awsome too.

Stay gold, Pony Boy.

People still use optical disks?

Installing windows.

That's what inexpensive USB thumb drives are for.

Tristam MacDonald. Ex-BigTech Software Engineer. Future farmer. [https://trist.am]

If you can wait a few weeks, Intel have just released the i7 4790k. It's basically a 4770k but with a 4GHz base frequency. It will be the same price as the 4770k, so if you're looking at a longer term machine, I'd wait.

This -- and if you do, make sure your motherboard is compatible.

People still use optical disks?

I'll never buy another ODD again if I can help it. I've got the Ultra-bay DVD-RW from my Lenovo laptop and a USB ultrabay adapter. Unless you're the 0.1% who burn/read discs frequently, they're basically as obsolete as floppies.

Bah Samsung is crap i recommend the Kingston HyperX 3K
For the rest Freaking nice build!

http://www.kingston.com/en/ssd/hyperx#sh103s3

In what alternate dimension did you gather this misinformation? Samsung has always had great, reliable SSDs, second only to intel. I use Samsung 830s and 840 Pros as boot drives in all my home and work PCs. The non-pro 840s are TLC NAND: three-bit-per-cell (830/840 PRO are MLC: two-bit-per-cell), hence the lower price point, but I've not heard anything bad about them. MLC is rated for greater endurance, but its the same controller inside, and Samsung's firmware has always been great.

throw table_exception("(? ???)? ? ???");

Can I hijack this just a bit and ask for some cpu cooler recommendations?

Planning on a similar 4790K/Z97 upgrade soon, and am considering an aftermarket cooler. Have heard good things about the Noctua NH-D15 that hodgman picked, but am also tempted by an all-in-one water cooler, but the reviews are all over the place. Anyone have any experience/advice?

if you think programming is like sex, you probably haven't done much of either.-------------- - capn_midnight

Oh, and you can probably run it alright, but you might want a slightly beefier PSU -- even if your power requirements are under its max load rating, PSUs operate most-efficiently in that 50-60 percent of max load range. If you went with a 850-900 Watt PSU you'd probably be at the low-end of that range, rather than the top-end, under load -- so you'd have room to upgrade comfortably, even SLI if you'd like. The price difference between 750W and 850-900 W is typically pretty negligible.

throw table_exception("(? ???)? ? ???");

Can I hijack this just a bit and ask for some cpu cooler recommendations?

Planning on a similar 4790K/Z97 upgrade soon, and am considering an aftermarket cooler. Have heard good things about the Noctua NH-D15 that hodgman picked, but am also tempted by an all-in-one water cooler, but the reviews are all over the place. Anyone have any experience/advice?

Noctua's typically place pretty high in comparisons. When I build a 4770k system for a friend last year, the Heligon HE01 was the best air-cooler available.

I put a closed-loop cooler in my own build not much later. Air-coolers do every bit as good as 1x120/140mm radiators, and the argument that you're dumping heat directly outside the case is moot if your airflow is otherwise good. To be pretty assured of better and quieter performance than a good air-cooler, you need 3x 120mm radiator or 2x140mm radiator in aluminum (and a large case to fit them), or a 2x120mm radiator in copper (which you can fit in most cases, even very small ones like mine). I put an h220 in mine, a copper 2x120mm radiator -- I ordered from NCIX as they are unavailable to retail in the US (patent dispute over having the pump integrated into the CPU block). The H220x is suppose to be available soon, and should be available in the US as they've moved the pump into the reservoir to avoid the patent issue. Also, I've heard some reports that the h220x is a kit, rather than a pre-built system. I actually would have preferred that myself, and you have two less components than a typical cooling loop due to the integration, but that still might be more than you bargained for.

Finally, be aware that while a sealed cooling loop is low-maintainance, it isn't *no-maintainance*. If there's even a tiny defect enough to leak vapor, but not liquid otherwise, you can lose coolant due to evaporation if you press your system hard for long periods. This happened in my loop.

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Thanks for the tips, everyone.

Can I hijack this just a bit and ask for some cpu cooler recommendations?
Planning on a similar 4790K/Z97 upgrade soon, and am considering an aftermarket cooler. Have heard good things about the Noctua NH-D15 that hodgman picked, but am also tempted by an all-in-one water cooler, but the reviews are all over the place. Anyone have any experience/advice?

My office PC has a AMD FX 8350, which originally had a little CoolerMaster fan on it that sounded like a jet engine whenever the CPU was under load. I swapped it out for the NH-D14, and now I can max out all 8 cores to full load and the PC stays silent, which is why I've stuck with the NH for this build happy.png

you might want a slightly beefier PSU -- even if your power requirements are under its max load rating, PSUs operate most-efficiently in that 50-60 percent of max load range.

Good point, I've swapped that out for a more efficient one. Should pay for itself over the next 5 years...

Samsung has always had great, reliable SSDs, second only to intel.

Sadly in my current PC, my Intel SSD had a sudden and total failure (known issue with a particular model), so I'm wary of them now. I've never had a hard-drive failure at all before that experience.

You may also want to look at case labs cases. They are pretty expensive, but they are made out of aluminum, made in USA, and look awsome too.

The USA isn't known for it's great manufacturing industry any more laugh.png wink.png

I've never had that much SSD space myself so I wouldn't know how to use it anyway.

Install ALL OF THE GAMES!
With small SSD's in the past, I've selectively juggled game files between the HDD and the SSD (using mklink /D /J ...) so whatever game I'm playing at the moment gets fast loading times. I'd like to just be lazy and have all the games I'm currently playing have fast loading times biggrin.png

People still use optical disks?

I burn DVDs occasionally when family/friends nag me to give them something that works on their vanilla DVD players... The BR burner likely won't be used very much... more of a "just in case I ever want to use a BR..." seeing I currently don't have a BR player at all.

Any reason for a 120GB Intel SSD in addition to another bigger SSD and a 2TB hard drive?

I was thinking of putting windows on the 100GB one by itself, and games/etc on the big one. I might save $100 and scrap the 120GB one though.

If you can wait a few weeks

Gotta spend the money before June 30 cool.png


If you can wait a few weeks

Gotta spend the money before June 30

Can you pre-order? spend the money now and just have it delivered upon release? Then again, I think you're in Australia, and I'm not sure what the launch window looks like there. But its a thought. Its basically 400 free Mhz, and cooler running as a result of improved thermal interface material.

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Its basically 400 free Mhz, and cooler running potentially higher overclocking as a result of improved thermal interface material.

Fixed.

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